ACF Greenhouses Blog

The Complete Guide to Plant Grow Lights

2026-06-04T11:15:00-05:00

Every plant lover gets to a point where natural sunlight just isn't cutting it anymore. Whether you are trying to keep a seedling alive in a dark corner or keeping your plants happy through a bleak winter, indoor grow lights for houseplants are the ultimate fix.

But how do you know if your plants actually need one, which species benefit the most, and how do you pick the right type and size from our selection? Let’s break it down.

How to Know You Need a Grow Light

Plants are excellent communicators. If your windows aren't delivering enough natural light, your plants will start showing these clear distress signals:

The "Leggy" Stretch: Your plant grows long, skinny, fragile stems that lean aggressively toward the nearest window.
No New Split Leaves: For plants like Monsteras, a lack of light means new leaves will stay small and lose their dramatic splits (fenestrations).
Fading Colors: Variegated plants (like a Marble Queen Pothos) will lose their white patches and turn completely green as they desperately try to maximize chlorophyll production.
Constant Leaf Drop: The plant suddenly sheds older, lower leaves because it doesn't have enough energy to support its entire size.

Which Plants Benefit the Most?

While almost any indoor plant will appreciate a boost, certain varieties absolutely require strong lights for plant growth if they aren't sitting directly in a massive southern window:

The Sun-Worshippers (High Benefit): Succulents, cacti, citrus trees, fiddle leaf figs, and indoor herbs. Without intense light, these plants will quickly weaken and deteriorate.
The Tropical Giants (Medium-High Benefit): Monsteras, Philodendrons, Alocasias, and Birds of Paradise. A grow light keeps them pushing out those massive, iconic leaves year-round.
The Survivors (Moderate Benefit): Snake plants, ZZ plants, and Pothos. They can live in low light, but adding a gentle grow light will turn them from "just surviving" into exploding with new growth.

Understanding the Types and Sizes We Offer

When you look at our selection of plant grow lights, you don't need to feel overwhelmed. We have carefully curated our inventory into two main styles depending on your space and goals:

Standalone Grow Light Bulbs (The Sleek & Hidden Route)

What they are: High-efficiency, screw-in Grow Light Bulbs (standard E26 base) that fit right into regular household lamps as well as Freestanding and Clamp-on Fixtures.
Best for: A single premium plant on a side table, a desk setup, or integrating into your existing living room decor.
How to size it: If you have one or two plants clustered together, a single grow lamp bulb screwed into a flexible desk lamp or pendant light is all you need. It delivers needed energy without altering the aesthetic of your room.

Linear & Panel LED Fixtures (The Heavy-Lifter Route)

What they are: High output LED Grow Lights and Fluorescent Grow Lights designed to cast an even blanket of full-spectrum light over a larger area.
Best for: Multi-tier plant shelves, indoor greenhouse cabinets, or clustering a massive group of plants together on a table.
How to size it: Measure the area you need the grow light to cover and pick the light option that provides at least that amount of area coverage for your application.

How to Get Started

All of our grow lights utilize cool-running, energy-efficient LED technology, meaning they won't affect your electric bill or scorch your delicate leaves.

To give your plants the exact boost they're begging for, aim to run your lights for 12 to 16 hours a day. We also highly recommend plugging them into an Automatic Wall Timer so you don't have to remember to flip the switch!

Explore our complete collection to find the perfect fit.

Browse Grow Lights and Accessories Here

Beat the Heat: The Ultimate Guide to Greenhouse Cooling Solutions

2026-06-03T10:57:00-05:00

Every greenhouse owner eventually learns a tough lesson: keeping a greenhouse cool in July is significantly harder than keeping it warm in January. Because greenhouses are literally engineered to trap solar radiation, an unmanaged structure can easily turn into an oven, hitting temperatures north of 110°F that can stall growth, cause bloom drop, or wither a crop in a matter of hours.

To protect your investment, you need a multi-layered cooling strategy. Depending on your climate, your greenhouse design, and what you’re growing, the optimal setup will usually combine passive venting, mechanical airflow, and active evaporative cooling.

Here is a breakdown of the core greenhouse cooling solutions available today and how to use them together effectively.

Automated Roof & Side Vents

Passive ventilation should always be your first line of defense. It relies on natural thermodynamics—hot air naturally rises toward the peak of the greenhouse, while cooler air is drawn in through lower side vents.

How it works: Many traditional kit greenhouses come equipped with built-in roof vents.

The Upgrade: To prevent having to manually open and close vents all day, Automatic Vent Openers are an absolute necessity. These clever devices require zero electricity; they use a specialized solar-reactive wax cylinder that expands as the greenhouse heats up, physically pushing the vent open, and contracts to close it as the temperature drops.

Best For: Spring and fall temperature management, or as a baseline system for smaller hobby greenhouses in mild climates.

Mechanical Exhaust Fan Systems

When passive vents can no longer keep up with intense summer sun, you must transition to mechanical, forced-air ventilation. The goal here is simple: physically strip the hot, stale air out of the building and replace it with fresh outdoor air.

The System Components: A complete mechanical setup requires a heavy-duty Exhaust Fan mounted high on one endwall and matching Intake Shutters mounted on the opposite endwall to create a clean cross-ventilation path.

Plug-and-Play vs. Wired: For smaller or hobby setups, Packaged Plug-In Exhaust Fan Systems eliminate the need for complex electrical wiring. They plug directly into a portable digital thermostat, turning on automatically when the greenhouse hits a target temperature. For larger, multi-fan commercial layouts, Variable-Speed Wired Fan Systems give you finer control over the volume of air moved based on the season.

Pro Tip: To protect your plants from cold air shock during transitional seasons, look for variable-speed fans or add an Automated Shutter Motor to ensure intake louvers only open when the fan is actively running.

Evaporative Cooling Systems (True Temperature Reduction)

It is a hard physical law of greenhouse ventilation: standard exhaust fans can never cool the inside of a greenhouse below the outdoor ambient temperature. If it is 95°F outside, the absolute best a perfect fan system can do is keep the inside right around 95°F to 98°F.

To actually drop the temperature below the outdoor baseline, you need Evaporative Cooling.

Evaporative Air Coolers: Often called pad or swamp coolers, these self-contained units use a pump to distribute water over cooling pads while a powerful internal blower pulls hot outdoor air through them. As the water evaporates, it absorbs thermal energy from the air, discharging air into the greenhouse that can be up to 30°F cooler than the outside temperature.

Misting & Fogging Systems: A great, cost-effective alternative or supplement. By running water through high-pressure poly or PVC misting nozzles, they inject a fine mist into the air. As the microscopic droplets evaporate before hitting the foliage, the Misting Systems pull heat out of the air, raising humidity and lowering the ambient temperature simultaneously.

Shade Cloth & Covers (Stopping Heat at the Source)

The best way to cool a greenhouse is to prevent the radiant heat from getting inside in the first place.

How it works: Knitted polyethylene or reflective Aluminet Shade Cloth is draped over the exterior of the greenhouse glazing. By blocking a specific percentage of light (typically 50% to 60% for general crops), you significantly reduce the solar heat gain inside the structure.

Aluminet vs. Black Shade: While traditional Black Shade Cloth absorbs heat and radiates some of it downward, Aluminet acts like a mirror, reflecting twisted infrared light away from the greenhouse entirely for maximum cooling efficiency.

Putting It All Together

For the ultimate summer cooling setup, these systems should work like a team. By layering your defenses, you can maintain a perfect, stress-free growing environment all year long.

Setup automated ventilation utilizing roof vents or an exhaust fan system
Block dangerous sun damage with a shade cloth
Provide constant air circulation in the greenhouse with circulation fans
Add evaporative cooling if needed to drop incoming temperatures with a misting system or evaporative cooler

Ready to equip your greenhouse? If you aren't sure which combination fits your goals, try out our online Greenhouse Exhaust Fan & Cooler CFM Calculator to get accurate equipment recommendations tailored to your exact structure size.

Ultimate Greenhouse Growing Guide for Beginners

2026-05-28T23:00:00-05:00

Greenhouse gardening completely transforms your relationship with the seasons. It allows you to protect delicate plants from unpredictable weather, start seeds weeks ahead of the local schedule, and harvest fresh vegetables, herbs, and flowers twelve months a year.

Whether you are setting up a compact backyard hobby greenhouse, a cold frame hoop house, or managing a heavy-duty commercial structure, controlling your microclimate is the ultimate key to success. This comprehensive guide breaks down the core fundamentals of greenhouse management across the United States and provides tailored, zone-by-zone planting blueprints.

Benefits of Greenhouse Gardening

Longer Growing Seasons

Break free from your local frost dates by starting earlier in the spring and harvesting deep into winter.

Better Plant Protection

Plants are protected from heavy rain, wind, hail, frost, and sudden temperature changes.

Improved Plant Growth

Controlled humidity and optimized light diffusion create a perfect environment, resulting in faster yields and healthier root systems.

More Crop Variety

Gardeners can grow plants that may not normally survive in their local climate.

Better Pest Control

Greenhouses significantly reduce pressure from outdoor pests like deer, rabbits, and destructive insects.

Choosing the Right Greenhouse

Need help picking the perfect model? Check out our comprehensive, step-by-step Greenhouse Buying Guide to find the right fit for your backyard and budget.

Where Should You Place a Greenhouse?

The best greenhouse location should:

Receive at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily
Have proper drainage
Have access to water and electricity
Allow for ventilation and airflow

South-facing locations usually provide the best year-round sunlight exposure.

Greenhouse Heating Guide

To keep production moving during freezing weather, you must match your heating capacity to your target crop needs.

Common Greenhouse Heating Options

Gas Greenhouse Heaters

Essential for larger structures, commercial setups, or deep-winter growing in northern climates where electric utility costs would be prohibitive.

Electric Greenhouse Heaters

Highly efficient and easy to install for small, well-insulated hobby greenhouses.

Winter Greenhouse Temperature Recommendations

Seedlings and Propagation: 65°F–75°F
Warm-Season Vegetables: 55°F–70°F
Tropical plants: 65°F+
Cold-hardy greens: 40°F–55°F

Greenhouse Ventilation Guide

An unventilated greenhouse is a trap for excess humidity and stagnant heat. To keep air fresh and prevent fungal outbreaks, invest in a complete ventilation system.

Important Ventilation Equipment

Exhaust fans automatically pull hot, humid air out of the greenhouse
Intake Shutters open in sync with your exhaust fans to bring fresh air across the canopy
Circulation fans run constantly to mimic natural breezes
Automatic Vent Openers automatically open roof vents as temperatures rise

Signs Your Greenhouse Needs More Ventilation

Excess condensation
Mold or mildew
Wilting plants during hot weather
High humidity

Need a hand sizing your ventilation?

Don't guess on your airflow requirements. Run your greenhouse dimensions through our Greenhouse Exhaust Fan Size Calculator to determine the exact fan and shutter sizes required for adequate cooling.

Greenhouse Growing Calendar

January–February

Start onions, herbs, broccoli, peppers, and tomatoes
Prepare greenhouse heating systems

March–April

Start cucumbers, squash, herbs, and flowers
Begin transplanting cool-season crops

May–June

Peak vegetable planting season
Fertilize actively growing plants

July–August

Start fall crops like broccoli, kale, and cabbage
Manage summer heat using active cooling and overhead greenhouse shade cloth to prevent leaf scorch.

September–October

Grow cool-season vegetables
Extend harvest season

November–December

Clean greenhouse
Protect winter plants
Plan next growing season

Greenhouse Gardening Tips for Beginners

Start small and expand gradually
Monitor temperature daily
Invest in ventilation early
Avoid overcrowding plants
Use quality soil and fertilizer
Learn your USDA growing zone
Keep a seasonal planting calendar

Frequently Asked Questions About Greenhouses

What is the best greenhouse for beginners?

Small, durable polycarbonate hobby greenhouses are often the best choice for beginners. They provide excellent insulation, shatter-proof safety, and great light diffusion, making them highly forgiving for new growers. If you are looking for an ultra-strong option with unmatched ventilation and commercial-grade frames, check out our line of Grow More Greenhouse Kits.

Can you grow vegetables year-round in a greenhouse?

Yes! Many cool-season vegetables and hardy herbs can be grown completely year-round with proper planning and minimal winter heating. Warm-season crops like tomatoes can also be extended late into the year with dedicated supplemental heat and grow lights.

Does my USDA Plant Hardiness Zone matter if I am growing in a greenhouse?

Yes, your local plant hardiness zone absolutely matters. While a greenhouse protects your plants from frost, wind, and rain, it is still heavily influenced by the outdoor climate surrounding it.

If you live in a colder northern region (like Zone 5), your greenhouse will require significantly more insulation and heavy-duty winter heating to stay productive compared to a mild southern region (like Zone 8). Conversely, growers in warmer zones will need to focus much more heavily on active exhaust fans and shade cloth to prevent summer overheating. Knowing your zone helps you choose the right heating, cooling, and insulation equipment for your specific climate.

Not sure what zone you are in?

Use this quick USDA Hardiness Zone Finder to instantly find your exact growing zone by zip code so you can plan your greenhouse climate perfectly.

Final Thoughts on Greenhouse Gardening

Greenhouse gardening opens the door to healthier plants, extended growing seasons, and the joy of gardening every month of the year. With a foundational understanding of heating, ventilation, and watering, even absolute beginners can find incredible success growing fresh food and beautiful flowers in nearly any climate.

Zone 5 Greenhouse Growing Guide

2026-05-26T16:18:00-05:00

Complete Zone 5 Greenhouse Gardening Guide

USDA Zone 5 greenhouse gardening demands careful planning, heavy-duty winter insulation, and reliable heating systems. However, the payoff is immense: a greenhouse completely transforms your gardening capabilities in a climate defined by short summers and long, punishing winters.

Zone 5 includes parts of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Nebraska, Michigan, New York, Vermont, and Maine. A greenhouse allows Zone 5 growers to easily overcome short outdoor growing seasons and cultivate heat-loving plants that would otherwise struggle to survive.

Zone 5 Climate Overview

Average Winter Temperatures

Zone 5 winter lows often range from -20°F to -10°F.

Growing Challenges

Short outdoor growing seasons
Harsh winters
Late spring frosts
Early fall frosts
Heavy snowpacks

Greenhouses significantly improve growing opportunities in Zone 5.

Zone 5 Greenhouse Growing Calendar

January–February

Maintain greenhouse heating carefully
Start onions, leeks, and hardy perennials

March–April

Start tomatoes and peppers indoors
Begin planting cold crops directly into greenhouse beds

May–June

Peak transplanting season begins
Continue frost protection when necessary

July–August

Peak outdoor summer heat
Keep fans running
Start fall vegetables indoors

September–October

Extend harvests inside greenhouse
Protect crops from early frosts

November–December

Winter greenhouse maintenance
Grow cold-hardy greens indoors

Heating Greenhouses in Zone 5

Reliable heating is critical in Zone 5.

Best Heating & Cool Weather Options

Modine Gas Heaters efficient fan-forced hanging gas heaters
Sterling Gas Heaters efficient fan-forced hanging gas heaters
Williams Direct Vent Gas Heaters wall mount gas heaters that don't require electricity
Greenhouse Bubble Insulation reduce heating costs with this clear insulation

Maintaining stable nighttime temperatures is essential during winter.

Final Thoughts on Zone 5 Greenhouse Gardening

Zone 5 greenhouse gardening opens the door to longer growing seasons, healthier plants, and successful vegetable production despite harsh winter conditions. With proper heating, insulation, and planning, greenhouse growers in colder climates can enjoy productive gardening nearly year-round.

Zone 6 Greenhouse Growing Guide

2026-05-25T16:18:00-05:00

Complete Zone 6 Greenhouse Gardening Guide

USDA Zone 6 offers incredible opportunities for greenhouse growers, allowing gardeners to dramatically extend their growing seasons and protect delicate crops from harsh, sub-zero winter conditions. However, greenhouses help Zone 6 gardeners extend growing seasons dramatically.

Zone 6 covers large portions of Pennsylvania, Missouri, Kentucky, Kansas, Colorado, Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio.

Zone 6 Climate Overview

Average Winter Temperatures

Zone 6 winter lows usually range from -10°F to 0°F.

Growing Season

Zone 6 has:

Moderate growing seasons
Cold winters
Strong spring and summer growing conditions

Zone 6 Greenhouse Growing Calendar

January–February

Maintain steady greenhouse heating
Start hardy onions, leeks, and early peppers under grow lights

March–April

Begin seeding tomatoes and herbs
Start transplanting cool-season crops into greenhouse beds

May–June

Main summer transplanting
Increase watering as temperatures rise and open vents fully

July–August

Start fall crops inside of the greenhouse
Watch greenhouse temperatures carefully to prevent overheating

September–October

Extend summer harvest season
Start planting cool-season salad greens

November–December

Protect plants from freezing conditions
Focus on winter greenhouse maintenance

Heating a Greenhouse in Zone 6

Because winter temperatures regularly drop below zero, reliable heating is a top priority for any year-round Zone 6 grower.

Recommended Heating Options

Modine Gas Heaters efficient fan-forced hanging gas heaters
Sterling Gas Heaters efficient fan-forced hanging gas heaters
Williams Direct Vent Gas Heaters wall mount gas heaters that don't require electricity
Greenhouse Bubble Insulation reduce heating costs with this clear insulation

Cold nights may require consistent supplemental heat.

Ventilation & Humidity Control

Even cold climates need greenhouse ventilation.

Important equipment includes:

Exhaust Fan Systems automatically pull hot, humid air out of the greenhouse
Circulation Fans run constantly to mimic natural breezes and reduce condensation

Final Thoughts on Zone 6 Greenhouse Gardening

Greenhouse gardening in Zone 6 allows growers to dramatically extend their growing season while protecting plants from cold winter conditions. Proper heating, insulation, and ventilation help create a productive year-round growing environment.

Zone 7 Greenhouse Growing Guide

2026-05-22T16:18:00-05:00

Long Growing Seasons, Balanced Climate

USDA Zone 7 is an exceptional climate for greenhouse gardening. Featuring moderate winters, long natural growing seasons, and hot summers, it offers the perfect environment to grow a variety of vegetables, herbs, flowers, and tropicals with minimal seasonal adjustments.

Zone 7 includes parts of Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee, Oklahoma, Arkansas, New Mexico, Oregon, and Washington. Greenhouse growers in Zone 7 can easily maintain continuous production year-round with proper planning and light winter heating.

Zone 7 Climate Overview

Average Winter Temperatures

Zone 7 winter lows typically drop down between 0°F and 10°F.

Growing Season Length

Gardeners here enjoy long, vibrant growing seasons, giving them early spring planting windows and exceptionally long autumn harvest options.

Frost Dates

Average last frost occurs from March to April
Average first frost occurs from October to November

Zone 7 Greenhouse Growing Calendar

January–February

Start peppers and onions
Begin early tomato seedlings
Maintain steady greenhouse heating

March–April

Seed cucumbers and squash
Move cool-season crops outside
Increase greenhouse ventilation

May–June

Peak growing season begins
Open exhaust shutters
Transition to daily watering

July–August

Start fall vegetable varieties
Monitor greenhouse temperatures carefully

September–October

Plant cool-season greens
Extend tomato harvests

November–December

Protect tender plants from freezing temperatures
Keep cold-hardy lettuce and spinach varieties going strong indoors

Heating a Greenhouse in Zone 7

Zone 7 winters are moderate compared to northern states, but seasonal greenhouse heating is still required during freezing winter nights to protect warm-season crops or sensitive perennials.

Popular Heating Options

Vented gas, propane, and electric heaters are all popular choices for keeping winter temperatures stable. Here at ACF Greenhouses, our recommended choices include:

Electric Heaters inexpensive option for small hobby greenhouses
Modine Gas Heaters recommended for larger hobby greenhouses as well as commercial structures
Sterling Gas Heaters recommended for larger hobby greenhouses as well as commercial structures
Williams Gas Heaters good alternative to electric heat in smaller greenhouses

Ventilation Tips for Zone 7 Greenhouses

Zone 7 summers can quickly become intensely hot and humid. To prevent severe heat stress, damping-off, and fungal diseases, every Zone 7 greenhouse must be equipped with a reliable ventilation setup. Important ventilation equipment includes: (More detailed information is available in our Greenhouse Supplies Guide)

Exhaust Fan Systems automatically pull hot, humid air out of the greenhouse
Circulation Fans run constantly to mimic natural breezes and reduce condensation
Shade Cloth keep a greenhouse from heating up as quickly and provide shade to plants that don't grow well in full sun

Final Thoughts on Zone 7 Greenhouse Gardening

Zone 7 is one of the most versatile greenhouse growing regions in the United States. With moderate winters and long growing seasons, greenhouse gardeners can successfully grow vegetables, herbs, flowers, and tropical plants for most of the year.

Zone 8 Greenhouse Growing Guide

2026-05-21T16:10:00-05:00

Complete Zone 8 Greenhouse Gardening Guide

USDA Zone 8 offers incredibly mild winters and exceptionally long, warm growing seasons, making it one of the absolute easiest climates for greenhouse gardening. Many Zone 8 growers are able to maintain continuous, abundant production year-round with almost no supplemental heating costs.

Zone 8 spans across parts of Texas, Georgia, South Carolina, Louisiana, Alabama, Arizona, California, and the Florida Panhandle.

Zone 8 Climate Overview

Average Winter Temperatures

Zone 8 winter lows typically range from 10°F to 20°F.

Growing Advantages

Long growing seasons
Earlier spring planting
Reduced winter heating costs
Strong fall growing opportunities

Zone 8 Greenhouse Growing Calendar

January–February

Start tomatoes and peppers
Keep growing cool-season greens

March–April

Begin aggressive spring planting
Increase ventilation during warm afternoons

May–June

Monitor greenhouse heat closely
Use protective shade coverings when necessary

July–August

Control humidity and heat buildup
Start fall vegetable crops indoors under cooler conditions

September–October

Excellent growing conditions return
Plant lettuce, kale, and cold-hardy greens

November–December

Continue cool-season production
Minimal heating may be required

Heating & Cooling Greenhouses in Zone 8

In Zone 8, cooling and heat management are far more critical than winter heating.

Important Cooling Equipment

Exhaust Fan Systems automatically pull hot, humid air out of the greenhouse
Shade Covers keep a greenhouse from heating up as quickly and provide shade to plants that don't grow well in full sun
Circulation Fans run constantly to mimic natural breezes and reduce condensation
Evaporative Coolers blow cooled air in from outside acting like an air conditioner for your greenhouse

Winter Heating

Many growers only need occasional supplemental and/or spot heating during cold snaps.

Common Heating Options

Electric Heaters inexpensive option for small hobby greenhouses
Plant Heating Mats recommended for larger hobby greenhouses as well as commercial structures

Final Thoughts on Zone 8 Greenhouse Gardening

Zone 8 is one of the easiest regions for greenhouse gardening thanks to its mild winters and long growing seasons. Proper cooling, ventilation, and watering are the keys to successful greenhouse growing in warmer climates.

Want a Small Greenhouse with Polycarbonate Panels for your Backyard?

2022-04-20T09:54:00-05:00

If you are looking to buy a small greenhouse for your backyard, it is a good time to so do. There have never been as many greenhouse kit options available as there are now. The down side is it can be difficult to choose the best one for your needs. One thing is for certain. Polycarbonate panels have become the most popular covering for backyard greenhouse kits. This is because polycarbonate has many advantages over traditional coverings like poly greenhouse film and glass. The list below refers to multiwall polycarbonate specifically like twin wall, triple wall, and five wall variants.

3 Main Advantages of Greenhouse Polycarbonate:

Polycarbonate has Better Insulation
Multiwall polycarbonate panels have insulating air space built into them which makes them one of the best insulated greenhouse coverings available especially for the price. Better insulation means the greenhouse kit will be easier and cheaper to heat.
Polycarbonate is More Durable (Stronger & Longer Lasting)
Polycarbonate panels are much more duarble than glass and poly film. They can withstand hurricane force winds and impacts from flying objects that would shatter glass panels and puncture greenhouse plastic films. Quality UV protected versions have an average life of 12 to 15 years which will save you the time and cost of replacing your greenhouse's cover every few years like with polyetheylene platsic.
Polycarbonate Provides a Better Growing Environment for Plants
Plants in greenhouses covered with multiwall polycarbonate panels receive a more diffused light which means plants will not burn from direct sunlight like in a glass covered backyard greenhouse. Instead the plants receive a more even amount of light to all of the plant's foilage.

When looking to purchase a small backyard greenhouse with polycarbnate panels, be wary of kits priced under $1000. Many of them come with a cheaper single layer polcarbonate referred to as corrugated polycarbonate which offers no insulation or light diffusion properties. We have also heard many tales of entry level small greenhouse kits coming with twin wall panels that need to be replaced within a couple years. To save money, some companies are using panels with very little if any UV protection. This can be an expensive repair because the cost of replacing all the panels on a greenhouse is usually at least half the cost of the whole greenhouse.

Multiwall polycarbonate is available in many different thicknesses. Thicker panels offer better insulation and increased rigidity allowing them to withstand higher winds and heavier snow loads. There is a trade-off though because of decreased light transmission into the greenhouse. Our Grow More greenhouses come with 10mm triple wall polycarbonate panels which offer the best mix of strength, insulation, and light transmission in the industry.

Automatic Ventilation for High Tunnel Greenhouses

2020-03-17T10:55:00-05:00

First let's explain the differences in the various types of growing structures including: high tunnel, cold frame, and greenhouse.

Cold frames are the smallest and simplest structures for protecting plants. They are generally low to the ground and don't use any equipment other than having vents or a roll-up cover that can be operated manually. These structures are used for frost protection of plants, extending the growing season a few weeks, and/or assisting in hardening off crops.

A growing structure that integrates heating and cooling systems and can be used to grow plants throughout the year is known as a greenhouse or hothouse. The design and construction of these is more substantial because of permanent electrical, plumbing, heating, and cooling equipment that is needed for their use.

High tunnels fall into the middle. They are taller and larger than cold frames like greenhouses are, but they are designed for season extending like cold frames and generally do not have automated heating and cooling equipment. Most high tunnels come with manual roll-up sides for ventilation. This type of natural ventilation does a very good job of keeping greenhouse temperatures in check as well when outside temperatures are warm and the sides can just be left down most of the day. It is not ideal as the sole means of ventilation though. As many growers have found out, the main issue is that it is difficult to regulate temperature with this system in colder weather and staged automation can be quite expensive. This is where supplemental ventilation comes in. By adding a small exhaust fan system to the high tunnel, you can have automated ventilation and cooling in colder weather where rolling the sides down will bring the temperature down too quickly and assist with ventilation when opening the side vents is needed. The fan system can also help lower the humidity level in the high tunnel to eliminate condensation. Since the roll-up sides will handle majority of the ventilation needs as outside temperatures increase, the fan will only need to provide a fraction (Usually around 1/3 to 1/5) of the CFM air flow required if it were the only means of ventilation. A 24" or smaller exhaust fan will be ideal for most high tunnels. Add an intake shutter for the other end and a thermostat, and you have a completely automated system. We offer several fan system options with the most popular being our Basic Plug-in Exhaust Fan System which does not require wiring. We also offer premium plug-in and wired exhaust fan systems as well.

Adding Automatic Vent Openers to your Greenhouse

2020-03-02T15:31:00-06:00

Most backyard hobby greenhouse kits come with built in roof vents for ventilation / cooling of the greenhouse. These work pretty well for most areas if sized properly by the manufacturer. Roof vent windows allow hot air inside the greenhouse to escape out while cooler fresh air from outside the greenhouse flows in to replace it. These greenhouses typically only come with manual openers for the vents, but they are easy to upgrade with automatic vent openers. These openers are cheap to add and simple to install in most instances. Automating your greenhouse kit's cooling system is one of the most recommended upgrades and adding automatic vent openers is cheap, and they are simple to install in most instances as well. ACF Greenhouses offers several different automatic vent openers.

Watch a Video of an Automatic Vent Opener in Action

How does an Automatic Greenhouse Vent Opener Work?
These are often referred to as solar power vent openers because they do require any electricity to work. Instead a force called hydraulic pressure creates the opening and closing of the openers. A strong metal tube contains a mineral wax which expands with heat. This pushes the piston inside it outwards which opens the auto vent. As the temperature drops, the wax shrinks and a strong spring closes the vent and resets the piston. Most automatic openers have adjustable opening and closing temperature ranges which allows you to fine tune them to your greenhouse kit.

How do I Know Which Vent Opener to get for my Greenhouse Kit?
Some automatic openers work better than others for different applications. For instance, Univent openers have unique a quick disconnect feature which makes them ideal for cold frames and most any vent that you want to be able to quickly open and/or close the vent manually without having to remove the opener. If you live in a really windy area or want to automate a vertical hinged vent (also referred to as a side or end wall vent), Bayliss triple spring openers are recommended because of their superior wind resistance and closing strength. Lastly, there is the Gigavent for large heavy vent windows. They can lift up to 65 lbs. and have a unique built-in damper to keep an extreme wind gust from blowing an attached vent window open.

How do I Know I am Getting a Quality Automatic Vent Opener?
Hydraulic automatic vent openers were invented in Europe, home to the two most respected manufacturers in the world, Bayliss Autovents & J. Orbesen Teknik ApS. They are both well known for producing the best quality vent openers which are made to last, which is why ACF Greenhouses only offers their products. We have tested many copies from China and other regions which look very similar, but the quality is just not the same. They typically are made with thinner and cheaper materials and the power cylinders tend to fail in the first few months of operation instead of lasting for several years like their European counterparts.

Overwatering your Plants?

2020-02-28T15:24:00-06:00

Each species of plant has its own specific watering requirements, and giving plants too much water can spell disaster. Over-watering severely damages plants, and could lead to their overall decline. Knowing the symptoms of over-watering and how to correctly determine when to water will help keep the plant healthy.

Proper watering can help prevent problems. Best practice is to let the soil dry before watering the plant. Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth. Deep, thorough watering will promote healthy plants. Regularly check for signs of over-watering by gently removing potted from their containers or digging into the ground near the plant’s root zone. Proper soil drainage greatly reduces your chances of overwatering by allowing excess water to be removed from the soil surrounding plants. If the waterlogged plants are caused by poorly drained soil, improve soil drainage by incorporating organic amendments, such as wood chips, straw, peat and tree bark, into the original soil. This is best done before planting.

SYMPTOMS OF OVERWATERING PLANTS

The roots of plants that are over-watered cannot absorb oxygen properly, resulting in wilted and yellow leaves. Both young and old leaves fall from the plant prematurely and buds fail to open. Both over-watered and under-watered plants develop wilted, discolored leaves that can fall from the plant, but leaves on over-watered plants have a limp appearance while under-watered leaves are brittle and dry. Over-watering deprives roots of oxygen, which they need to function properly. When the roots are continuously deprived of oxygen, the root fibers die. This prevents the plant from receiving the moisture it needs for healthy leaves. Dry, brown discoloration appears between the leaf veins and along the edges. These leaves will eventually die and fall off.

Simplify and automate watering in your greenhouse and/or raised gardens with one of our greenhouse watering kits.

The Problem with using Unvented Gas Heaters in a Greenhouse

2020-02-27T10:00:00-06:00

We are often asked why we don't sell unvented (often referred to as ventless or vent-free) gas heaters. They are cheap. There is no need to for a vent pipe, They are +99% efficient. They produce byproducts like CO2 which plants need, and add humidity to the greenhouse. What's not to love right? Well let's talk about some misconceptions and the potential dangers of using them in a greenhouse environment.

Unvented Gas Heaters are More Efficient
Not really. The reason they can advertise those +99% efficiencies is because they do not have to include the heat loss from venting the heater byproducts unlike vented heaters which force the byproducts from combustion outside of the greenhouse. Well a greenhouse is considered a confined space by heater manufacturer standards because much more heat is needed per square foot than in an insulated garage or room in a home which is what these heaters were intended for. Why does that matter? Because a ventless heater in a confined space requires both intake and exhaust "openings" in the greenhose for proper heater combustion. Unlike most vented heaters where heat is only escaping through the vent when the heater is running, the holes you made in the greenhouse for the unvented heater are losing heat all of the time making them less efficient than vented gas heaters. What happens if you don't provide these openings? Gas heaters use oxygen for combustion. As the heater runs, it will reduce the oxygen level in the greenhouse. This will cause the heater to starve and not burn as clean which increases byproducts like carbon monoxide and ethylene gas negatively affecting the growth of plants. Eventually the heater will run out of oxygen for combustion and cut off leaving plants in the cold.

Heater Byproducts like CO2 and Water Vapor Benefit Plants
Yes and no. Increases in CO2 and humidity can be beneficial to plants if they are added when the plants need them. The problem is most of the heating in a greenhouse is done at night when plants use the least amount of CO2. Moisture levels in the greenhouse are at a high in the winter especially at night. Adding more water vapor leads to condensation inside the greenhouse and water dripping on plants which leads to disease problems including fungi, blight and molds.

Gas heaters also produce small amounts of sulfur dioxide and ethylene gas which don't have noticeable effects on humans but can be devastating to plants in minute amounts especially to sensitive plants like tomatoes and flowers.

That is why we only sell or recommend vented gas heaters for greenhouses. They do cost more and installation is more involved, but you end up with a much safer and more reliable heat source for your plants. We do not feel the additional risks of using unvented gas heaters in a greenhouse is worth any savings on the initial cost of a heater. If a vented gas heater is out of your budget, an electric heater is a safe low cost alternative for smaller greenhouses.